Lookout tasted 11 pumpkin pies in Santa Cruz County. These two are the best.

Every fall, while Americans argue over the best way to cook turkey, the real star of Thanksgiving sits quietly on the dessert table, waiting to be smothered in whipped cream. 

For many, stuffing a wedge of pumpkin pie or three down your pie hole is an essential part of the third Thursday in November. More pumpkin pies than poultry are eaten during this culinary holiday — 50 million pies versus a mere 46 million turkeys. While some consider a confection made from squash controversial, pumpkin pie fans far outweigh the naysayers. It’s the most popular holiday pie, beating out apple and pecan by double digits. 

With oven space at a premium and pies available at grocery stores and bakeries throughout Santa Cruz County, this is one dish where store-bought is just as good, if not better, than homemade. But which one? 

In the spirit of election season and the holidays, Lookout vetted pies from 11 major bakeries and grocery stores to find the best pumpkin pie in Santa Cruz County. 

How did we do it? First, we purchased pies from markets with in-house bakeries, including New Leaf Community Markets, Whole Foods, Staff of Life Market and Costco, and stopped by the bakery aisle for versions from Watsonville’s Gizdich Ranch and Santa Cruz’s Beckmann’s Bakery. Lookout also ordered pies from Companion Bakeshop (with locations in Aptos and Santa Cruz), Gayle’s Bakery in Capitola, The Farm Bakery Cafe in Aptos and The Buttery and Switch Bakery in Santa Cruz.

(Manresa Bread in Santa Cruz offers a pumpkin tart for pickup in the days leading up to Thanksgiving, but the bakery did not respond to a request to purchase one in early November.)

Then, we took some stats. The pies ranged in price from $5.99 at Costco (about 10 cents an ounce for a 12-inch pie) to $40 for a 9-inch pie made with organic ingredients at Companion Bakeshop in Santa Cruz ($1.14 per ounce). Many were between $20 and $30. The majority of the pies were 9 inches in diameter, but Staff of Life sold an 8-inch pie and Gayle’s pie is 10 inches. 

After removing any identifying packaging, Lookout staff members first assessed each pie’s appearance. We noted browning and any decorative elements. Then, we dug in. Was the crust crumbly or tough? Golden brown or pale? When it was removed from the tin, did the crust fall from the filling? Was the bottom undercooked or flaky all the way through? 

Then, we examined the filling. Flavor was paramount, and we looked for a pie with balanced sweetness, strong pumpkin flavor and a spice profile that wasn’t overwhelming. We wanted a silky smooth texture that wasn’t watery or grainy — the result of cooking the delicate custard at too high of a temperature. We also noted how the slice separated from the tin, seeking a photo-worthy wedge. 

We discovered that some pies had a tasty filling or well-made crust, but most did not have both of those attributes at the same time. The spices in several pies was too assertive for tasters who craved a classic flavor profile, while others were too bland. And some lost points for appearance; looks count during a holiday that’s all about the food.

In the end, two pies stood apart as clear winners. 

Gayle’s version is classic pumpkin pie at its finest. One Lookout reporter called it “the platonic ideal of pumpkin pie.” It doesn’t push the envelope on style, but that’s not what most people want out of a feast where nostalgia seasons the food as much as salt and pepper. But every element is executed perfectly. 

The crust is thick, flaky and golden, with an attractive crimp along the edge. The filling is well-baked without being too brown, and lusciously silky, boarding on flan-like, with sweetness, pumpkin and warm spices in balance. We were also impressed with the structure; this pie separated from the tin in a pristine wedge, no pie left behind, and could easily be eaten out of hand if necessary without flopping onto the floor. 

Pre-orders are recommended, but some pies and slices are sold in-house. 

Beckmann’s pumpkin pie has a blue ribbon on the box, and it’s easy to see why. It’s a 2023 National Pie Champion, and it earned high marks from Lookout’s tasters as well. 

This pie features a leaf decoration on the surface and a tender crust with a pronounced buttery flavor. The filling is creamy and sweet, with the warm flavors of cinnamon and nutmeg shining through without being overpowering. The texture is custardy, similar to a homemade pie. Several staff members designated it their favorite pie of them all. “So good! Everything was perfect,” wrote one judge. 

Beckmann’s Bakery bakes its pies in Santa Cruz and distributes them to grocery stores throughout the county. It also offers pies, bread and other baked treats at farmers markets in Scotts Valley and Aptos on Saturdays, and in Live Oak on Sundays. 

Interested in how your favorite pie stacked up in our taste test? Check out these pie charts — sorry, we couldn’t resist — of delicious data. 

Editor’s note: Graphics were created with assistance from artificial intelligence tools. All data were manually compiled and reviewed, and no AI was used in the reporting or writing process.

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