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EAT THIS: LACTO CRUDITÉ AT EMERALD MALLARD
Emerald Mallard isn’t exactly known for its vegetables. At chef Lance Ebert’s restaurant inside Humble Sea Tavern in Felton, the former SC Bread Boy has made a name for himself with ginormous, lacey-edged smash burgers, fried chicken sandwiches, steaks smothered in rich Bordelaise sauce and fresh oysters and seafood crudos, often gussied up with generous spoonfuls of caviar. It is, by Ebert’s own admission, not trying to be vegan-friendly.
But Ebert knows how to dial up a plate of plants. And last week, hidden within a menu that included Flintstones-esque bone marrow and duck poutine, a crudité platter ($15) stole the show.
The plate was spring incarnate. Whole carrots the length of a finger, long ribbons of shaved carrot, fiery spring radishes, herbs and little tender greens wreathed a bright green goddess dressing. A quick pickle by lacto-fermentation – but much milder than a kosher dill – gave the vegetables a tangy, complex edge while maintaining the vibrant freshness.
It’s surprising dishes like that that celebrate local and seasonal ingredients with powerful flavors and presentation that make every visit to Emerald Mallard exciting and just plain fun. His menu is ever-changing, but Ebert always delivers on a “wow” moment.
6256 Highway 9, Felton; emeraldmallard.com.
BEST OF THE WEEK AHEAD
Below, find a curated list of the best food and drink events in Santa Cruz County for the coming week. At the top, I share my picks of unmissable local happenings.
NEWS OF THE WEEK
ICYMI – here are food news stories from Lookout that you might have missed.
- Rising prices ‘inevitable’ as tariffs hit home at 29-year-old cookware store in downtown Santa Cruz (Lookout)
- California salmon season canceled for third year in a row, but will open for limited recreational dates (Lookout)
- Black truffle, wagyu tartare and celebrity chefs: Inside the opulent Pebble Beach Food & Wine (Lookout)
- Former Café Sparrow chef brings playful pub food to downtown Santa Cruz speakeasy (Lookout)
