Quick Take:
Recent rescues and dangerous surf are reminders that even experienced beachgoers can get caught off guard. A local lifeguard and longtime surfer share practical advice on spotting hazards, avoiding rip currents and staying safe in Santa Cruz's unpredictable waters.
Every time I hear about people dying or getting hurt in the ocean, it reminds me just how vital ocean safety is. People who live in Santa Cruz County are often well aware of the dangers the beach can bring, but that does not mean the dangers are any less severe; I believe it is always good to have a refresher on what safety looks like.
As someone who has grown up going to Capitola Beach either with my family or attending the Junior Lifeguard program, I was taught how to be safe. Whether I was doing a dolphin dive through a strong current or never turning my back to the ocean, I have always been aware of potential ocean dangers, even on days with seemingly perfect weather.
I often feel frustrated when I see people taking unnecessary risks in our waters. I have to remind myself that not everyone has had the opportunity to learn how to recognize those dangers or how to respond to them. Sometimes, even when you take every precaution, things simply happen. The ocean is unpredictable and no amount of experience can eliminate every risk.
In light of the recent beach hazards warning and the high number of rescues in the area, I decided to interview a local surfer and lifeguard to share their tips on beach safety.
I first spoke to Curtis Koppel, a longtime Santa Cruz resident who has been surfing and sailing in these waters for over 60 years and asked for his best advice, and he offered these surfing “rules:”
Rule No. 1: Do everything you can to hold onto your board. If the wave hits you and you bail on your board it can hit other people and they can get hurt.
Rule No. 2: Don’t let someone misguide you to a place you are not comfortable with – don’t let them take you to the black diamond of surfing. When you go to a location and condition that aligns with your surfing level, you will be more safe and comfortable. Location can be crucial, for instance Steamers (which is for advanced surfers) vs. Cowells or Capitola (best for beginners).
Rule No. 3: Be aware of your surroundings. It is important to understand where the wave breaks and that every wave is different, especially when you do not always know what is below you.
Rule No. 4: Have patience. There is a lot of waiting for a wave and you need to feel the way the ocean moves and know which waves are ones you can catch. Many people start out overconfident and end up getting hurt, whether by the water or hitting the bottom. “I am not going to surf a wave I cannot catch” is a good mantra for people to think about.
Rule No. 5: Take safety seriously. You have no business going out there when it’s not safe. If there are warnings about the conditions you should not go out to surf.
Koppel, who happens to be my grandfather, has a reputation for storytelling and talking about his experience, which is an amazing quality to have. After going over his list of rules, he shared with me some common mistakes and misconceptions people make or have about surfing.
When people are coming into the waves, “the biggest mistake is to paddle right in front of where they’re going. That’s a common mistake and you are looking to get hurt,” he says. “So find a way to time your paddle out and to be respectful of where people are on the wave and where you can expect trouble. You’ve got to know the waves and the people around you.”
A lot of people think surfing is about standing up. Koppel tells people who are new to the sport that standing up isn’t important; it’s about trusting yourself first and feeling comfortable before coming off your board.
“If I give you a board and you just stand there, you’ll fall over. It is like a bike where you need the element of movement,” he says, adding that surfing is all about finding your balance.
And above all, ask yourself, “are you having fun?” Because that is what surfing should be.
For more ocean safety tips, I spoke to Jack Snyder, who works for the Santa Cruz City Fire Department’s Marine Safety Division at Main Beach, located next to the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, and he offered these tips:
On rip currents, which are strong, narrow and localized streams of water moving directly away from the shore, Snyder says to look for these signs to identify one: A narrow channel of darker, choppy water moving away from shore; it’s usually in the shape of a mushroom cloud; look for a break or gap in the pattern of incoming waves; and lastly, look for discolored water from stirred up sand.
If you get stuck in a rip current, stay calm, never try to swim directly against it, try to float on your back and take some deep breaths, and try to swim parallel to shore to get out of the rip current, and then swim back onto the beach.
If you are getting tumbled by waves and you can’t get out, he shares that the best thing to do is to stay calm and take deep breaths in between diving under the waves. If you feel like you are getting pulled out before the wave hits you, the best thing to do is to let the wave tumble you as far in towards the beach as possible to help you get out. It may seem counter-intuitive, but using the ocean’s power to help you get out is a really helpful skill to have.
Don’t turn your back on the ocean. It is so unpredictable and conditions change every minute. The last thing you want to do is have your back facing the ocean and a big wave comes and sweeps you out to sea.
When there is a big swell in the water and you are thinking about heading to the beach, please make sure to check in with a lifeguard to see what the conditions are like. Sometimes with big swells, the ocean looks calm and inviting, but as soon as a set of waves comes, it looks like a completely different place. Hazards are everywhere.
There are other risks. Many people also underestimate strong shore break waves, changing tides, sun and heat exposure, cold water, and the dangers of alcohol around the water.
Cliff jumping. At Main Beach, we sometimes have people who try to jump off of the railroad trestle into the river, or they try to jump off of San Lorenzo point into the river. But what most people don’t know is that sometimes the river is only a few feet deep, which makes it extremely dangerous to be jumping off of something that high. Our main job as lifeguards is prevention, so we try to make sure that we stop something from happening before it happens. Usually, we will talk to the people who are trying to jump and inform them about the dangers of jumping off of the trestle or the cliff. We do not allow people to jump at any time because the risks are much higher than the potential reward.
We ended our conversation with Snyder sharing that the best way to stay safe in the ocean is to be aware of your surroundings, know your limits, and always swim near a lifeguard. Paying attention to beach conditions, following warning flags and looking out for others can help prevent emergencies before they happen. And finally, being prepared and respecting the power of the ocean are the most important steps to keeping yourself and others safe, he says.
In researching this story, I found other useful tips. Among them:
Weather can change quickly. So it is important to always stay up to date on the conditions and check for any beach hazards. Even when the ocean appears calm, it is still important to follow the basic rules and follow them regardless of how the ocean conditions appear.
Check for flags in the area, and know what they mean.
Green: Low hazard; calm conditions, safe for swimming.
Yellow: Medium hazard; moderate surf and/or strong currents. Exercise caution.
Black Ball Beach Flag: Non-powered watercraft are prohibited in that area, including surf boards, paddleboards, etc.
Orange: Environmental hazard indicating poor air or water quality.
Purple: Dangerous marine life is present (e.g., jellyfish, stingrays).
Red: High hazard; rough conditions with high surf and/or dangerous currents. Swimming is not recommended.
Double Red: Water is entirely closed to the public; entry is prohibited
Check the tides. People often go to the beach when the tide is low but do not realize the tide is slowly rising. During low tides, waves are less intense. One beach in Santa Cruz, for example, has a stair access point, the 38th stairs. When the tide is low it is easy to walk down to the beach to find a spot on the cove. But as the tide rises the path is no longer there as the waves block the exit causing people to get stuck. To check what the tides are like in your area go to NOAA Tides and Currents.
Additional resources:
Ocean Safety | City of Santa Cruz, CA
Ocean Safety for the Beginner Santa Cruz Surfer – Capitola Beach Company
Sloane Birnbaum is an incoming senior at Soquel High School and a summer intern at Lookout Santa Cruz.
