Quick Take

Lookout's wine expert details a memorable Taste of Terroir event, checks in on the local wine grape harvest as it draws ever closer and compiles news, notes and events from around Santa Cruz County's wine scene in her latest column.

Welcome to Laurie Love on Wine! I am Laurie Love, a professional wine writer and educator based in Santa Cruz. In this column, I share my wine passion, knowledge and experience with Lookout readers. Follow me on my wine blog, Laurie Loves Wine, and on Instagram at LaurieLoveOnWine. I love email from readers! Stay in touch: Email me at laurie@lookoutlocal.com. Join me as we journey together through the wonderful world of wine.

Memorable Midsummer Night wine dinner at Lester Estate

Lester estate vineyard in Pleasant Valley, Aptos on August 11, 2024
Lester Estate Vineyard in Pleasant Valley, Aptos. Credit: Laurie Love / Lookout Santa Cruz

The popular Midsummer Harvest Dinner at Lester Estate Wines in Pleasant Valley on Sunday was a huge success. Hosted by Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains as part of its annual Taste of Terroir wine dinner series, the sold-out event took place al fresco on a warm evening with views of the summer sun setting on Lester Vineyard’s immaculate rolling hills and the Monterey Bay in the distance. The talented Brad Briske, chef-owner of Home restaurant in Soquel, expertly prepared passed appetizers and a fabulous four-course, sit-down dinner paired with wines from select Santa Cruz Mountains wineries.

The evening started with a “tasting salon,” a walk around tasting featuring wines from Charmant Vineyards, Ferrari Ranch Winery, La Vida Bella Vineyard, Left Bend Winery, Lester Estate Wines and Santé Arcangeli Family Wines. One of my favorite wines of this tasting was La Vida Bella Vineyard’s 2020 Sparkling Rosé, so fresh and beautifully made by Dan Person in the traditional sparkling wine method, it makes a perfect aperitif and was a great start to the evening. Read the story here.

Santa Cruz harvest on the horizon

Wine grape harvest in Santa Cruz is still a couple weeks off, but some areas of California have already started. In Napa Valley, harvest for sparkling wine grapes is underway. Typically, every year in every region the earliest harvested fruit is destined for sparkling wine production. This is because sparkling wine requires grapes that are barely ripe, when they are higher in acidity and lower in sugar.

And Contra Costa County just started harvest for red grape varietals, including carignane, zinfandel and mataro (also known as mourvèdre).

Pinot noir clusters going through veraison at Lester Estate Vineyard, Aptos.
Pinot noir clusters going through veraison at Lester Estate Vineyard, Aptos. Credit: Laurie Love / Lookout Santa Cruz

In the meantime, as I reported two weeks ago in my story with Ken Swegles, the vineyards in our region continue to ripen and go through veraison. Veraison is the onset of grape ripening when red grape varieties including pinot noir change color from green to red berries, indicating harvest is 30-70 days away. 

Bird netting protecting the harvest at Lester Estate Wines.
Bird netting protecting the harvest at Lester Estate Wines. Credit: Kevin Painchaud / Lookout Santa Cruz

Many vineyards have also put up netting around the vines to protect the ripening fruit from being eaten by birds. So far, the steady weather has been perfect for the nearing harvest. In my next column, I’ll have another vineyard update from local viticulturist Prudy Foxx. Stay tuned.

Neely hires new winemaker, Sarah Green

Neely Wine, located in the Portola Valley area of the Santa Cruz Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA), recently hired a new winemaker. Sarah Green will lead winemaking, production and creative operations for Neely, taking over from its longtime winemaker, Shalini Sekhar, who remains on staff as consulting winemaker. 

Green will work with Operations Director Lucy Neely on managing the estate’s 16 acres of vineyards and the winery. Neely’s estate vineyard, Spring Ridge, was planted beginning in 1980 and has a long legacy of producing outstanding chardonnay and pinot noir.

Winemaker Sarah Green inspecting the harvest.
Winemaker Sarah Green inspecting the harvest. Credit: SarahAyresGreen.com

Green comes to the Santa Cruz Mountains from the Anderson Valley (in Mendocino County) where she honed her winemaking craft making premium chardonnay and pinot noir for FEL Wines and Savoy Vineyard. It was there that Green developed a love for historical vineyard sites, so it was a natural transition for her to Neely. “It was immediately apparent to me that this is a special place,” said Green. “I’m excited for this next chapter.” Green joins the Neely family and a seasoned vineyard team that includes viticulture consultant Ken Swegles

Neely Wine (575 Portola Rd., Portola Valley) is open for tastings at its estate vineyard Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. For more information, visit its website or call 650-206-3213.

New winery coming soon: Rosscienda in Aptos

Rosscienda Vineyard, a small 4-acre vineyard in Aptos producing estate chardonnay, pinot noir and other varietals, has launched its brand-new website. You can order its debut wines and sign up to be among the first to know when its new tasting room opens sometime this fall.

Rosscienda Vineyard’s estate in the Aptos area of Santa Cruz Mountains.
Rosscienda Vineyard’s estate in the Aptos area of Santa Cruz Mountains. Credit: Rosscienda Vineyard

Rosscienda Vineyard is owned by Doug and Jenny Ross. Prudy Foxx is their vineyard consultant, Nick Pisano is their vineyard manager and Dave Moore is the winemaker. Moore has ties to the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA from his work at Martin Ray Estate, Mount Eden Vineyards and Bonny Doon Vineyard. It promises to be another great winery in the area.

Tickets now on sale for Big Sur Food & Wine

The annual Big Sur Food & Wine event returns Oct. 31 through Nov. 2. Throughout the weekend, guests can attend a variety of culinary and wine-related events, tastings, food pairings, tours, hikes and much more. Tickets for the festival just went on sale Wednesday. Each event requires a separate ticket and many of them sell out, so check out the festival program here and grab your tickets soon.

  • Aptos Vineyard chocolate & wine pairings available during tasting room hours now until Sept. 2. Check its website for more info.
  • Charmant Vineyards summer wine release party Saturday from 5 to 8 p.m. Reservations required and available here.
  • Muns Vineyard tasting featuring estate pinot noir vertical Sunday from 11:30 a.m. Reservations required by contacting Mary at mary@munsvineyard.com, or phone 408-234-2079.
  • Bottle Jack Winery Friday happy hour with live music from Jenny O’Leary Jazz Quartet happens Friday, Aug. 23, from 4 to 6 p.m. Reservations available here.
  • Windy Oaks winemaker dinner six-course wine pairing dinner at Persephone Restaurant in Aptos – Sunday, Aug. 25, at 5:30 p.m. Menu and reservations here.
  • Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains’ Taste of Terroir dinner series concludes for 2024 with “Into the Fog” Salon & Dinner at Thomas Fogarty Winery, Friday, Sept. 13, at 5 p.m. Tickets and more info here.

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Until next time!

Cheers,

Laurie

Laurie Love is a professional wine educator and writer based in Santa Cruz, where she has lived for 34 years. She shares her wine passion, knowledge and experience with Lookout readers as Lookout’s wine...