Eaters Digest is delivered as a free newsletter via email, as well as on our website. Click here to become a Lookout member – and access all of Lily’s food and beverage reporting.
EAT THIS: CACIO E PEPE AT MANE KITCHEN & COCKTAILS
Mane Kitchen & Cocktails opened in downtown Santa Cruz at the end of October, and has all the ingredients a new restaurant wishes for: an experienced chef with several big restaurant names under his belt and a definitive approach to cuisine; an equally knowledgeable business partner with a passion for bartending and hospitality; and a staff of veteran industry workers who could probably manage a packed holiday weekend with one hand tied behind their backs.
So far, teamwork has made the dream work for co-owners Desmond Schneider and Julianna Mireles, with excellent service, well-crafted cocktails and a menu that’s approachable and elegant. They somehow managed a fairy godmother-like glow-up of the former Betty’s Eat Inn with reupholstered banquettes and barstools, new floors, classic deep green and black walls and new lighting. But it feels a bit stark. I think leaning into the lounge-like atmosphere with lower lighting, moodier music and some romantic corners would better match the sexy evening vibe they’re going for.
Chef Schneider creates boisterous bistro fare with elegant touches that keep the familiar menu of steaks, salads, pasta and seafood fresh and interesting. His version of classic cacio e pepe pasta ($22) is made with tender homemade flat noodles and topped with an airy sabayon, imbued with aged Parmesan and cracked pepper. Traditionalists might balk at using a light, egg-infused sauce over the typical emulsified cheese and water, but the sabayon melted into a rich, creamy sauce bursting with cheesy umami. (He did a similar version for the clam pasta with udon at Pete’s in Capitola and it was a standout dish there, too.)
NOTE
Eaters Digest is taking a two-week break for the holidays. I’ll see you back here on Jan. 9.
BEST OF THE WEEK AHEAD
Below, find a curated list of the best food and drink events in Santa Cruz County for the coming week. At the top, I share my picks of unmissable local happenings.
NEWS OF THE WEEK
ICYMI – here are the food news stories from Lookout that you might have missed, plus important news from beyond our borders picked by yours truly.
- Lily Belli on Food: S.J. chain bringing Midtown brunch to downtown Santa Cruz; gluten-free Switch Bakery sets January opening (Lookout)
- Drop in whale entanglements fuels optimism that Dungeness crab season can open Jan. 1 (Lookout)
- Everything is steakhouse now (Eater)
- Instacart to pay $60M in settlement of FTC lawsuit (Grocery Dive)
