Mane Kitchen & Cocktails opens in former Betty’s Eat Inn space with steaks, caviar and cocktails

Mane Kitchen & Cocktails opened in downtown Santa Cruz at the end of October, and has all the ingredients a new restaurant wishes it had: an experienced chef with several big names under his belt and a definitive approach to cuisine; an equally knowledgeable business partner with a passion for bartending and hospitality; and a staff of veteran industry workers who could probably manage a packed holiday weekend with one hand tied behind their backs.   

So far, teamwork has made the dream work, with excellent service, well-crafted cocktails and a menu that’s approachable and elegant. However, there’s room for the decor to improve to meet the sexy fine-dining vibe the owners are aiming for. 

The collaboration is a first for longtime friends Desmond Schneider and Julianna Mireles, who decided to pool their talents, open their own place and hire people that they know and have worked with within the industry. Schneider led the kitchen at Pete’s in Capitola and Seabright Social in Santa Cruz, which closed in September. Before that, he was the chef for wood-fired pop-up Pizza Bones and the chef de cuisine at Alderwood Santa Cruz. Mireles has more than a decade of experience working at area bars, including Hollins House at Pastatiempo, Alderwood Santa Cruz and the Redroom Cocktail Lounge. 

This fall, they scored a prime location at the former Betty’s Eat Inn, featuring rare patio seating in the heart of Pacific Avenue, and opened on Halloween after updating the interior. 

At Mane, there is an invitation to celebrate, or at least splash out, with caviar, steaks, fresh seafood and cocktails. But Schneider and Mireles manage to balance fine dining with approachable price points. For example, with the 14-ounce wagyu striploin ($82) – served classically with a silky brandy jus, creamed spinach and duchess potatoes – one might pair a glass of Mondavi cabernet sauvignon for an unheard-of $8 a glass, or a $750 bottle of Napa’s elite Opus One Bordeaux blend. 

Cocktails are a focal point. There’s a seasonal spin on a John Daly with yuzu lemonade and iced tea, and a tropical mezcal margarita with passionfruit, pineapple and a spicy Tajin rim on the specialty cocktail list, both fun, both $14. Bartender Raphael Reyes’ dirty gin martini was perfectly crisp and savory, and begged for an order of truffle fries ($10).

There are plenty of small plates designed to be enjoyed alongside libations. A raw bar near the entrance offers fresh oysters (six for $24, 12 for $48), classic shrimp cocktail ($20), and a caviar service with homemade milk bread, shallot and crème fraîche ($115). The chicken liver pâté ($17) on fluffy homemade sourdough bread has become a fan favorite on Instagram, and the roasted honey patch squash ($15) with crunchy salsa macha and lime crema is a lively vegetarian dish. 

Schneider creates boisterous bistro fare with elegant touches that keep the familiar menu of steaks, salads, pasta and seafood fresh and interesting. His version of classic cacio e pepe pasta ($22) is made with tender homemade flat noodles and topped with an airy sabayon, imbued with aged Parmesan and cracked pepper, that melted into a creamy sauce. (He did a similar version for the clam pasta with udon at Pete’s and it was a standout dish there, too.) For the French onion soup ($18), Schneider replaces the traditional crouton and cheese lid with a dunkable, full-size grilled cheese sandwich.

Mireles and Schneider had their work cut out for them to transform the former burger diner into a swanky evening space, and they somehow managed a fairy godmother-like glow-up with reupholstered banquettes and barstools, new floors, classic deep green and black walls and new lighting. The space is uncluttered, but feels a bit stark. I think leaning into the lounge-like atmosphere with lower lighting, moodier music – maybe a DJ – and some romantic corners would better match the menu and cocktails. 

A speakeasy VIP area is in the works, Mireles said. She’s working to transform a back room with low hammered-gold tables and tufted leather couches for private parties of up to 15 people, and reserved seating. She aims to have the space open by Dec. 31, and will add more decor in the main dining room after the holidays. 

The addition of Mane is a welcome injection into a struggling cocktail lounge scene, following the demise of the upstairs Red Room, 515 Kitchen & Cocktails and Obló Cocktails & Kitchen. With the food, drinks and hospitality dialed in, a few thoughtful cosmetic upgrades could cement it as a dining destination. 

1222 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz; 831-201-2242; manekc.com. 

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