Santa Cruz bartenders shake, stir and sprint at Venus Spirits’ third annual competition

The rhythmic rattling of cocktail shakers beat above the cheers of fans four deep along the bar at Venus Spirits’ Westside Santa Cruz tasting room on Monday night as bartenders from across the county mixed and muddled through the third annual bartending competition. 

More than a dozen representatives from bars and restaurants sought to to impress a panel of judges across three rounds of skill-based challenges. In the creative round, competitors put forth their most inventive holiday-inspired cocktails, from a gingerbread-infused espresso martini served in a coupe rimmed with cookie icing and sprinkles, to a hot mulled white wine inspired by duck a l’orange. A chaotic timed margarita-mixing speed round came next, followed by a rum-soaked daiquiri chugging relay race, as fans on the sidelines whooped their support and waved homemade signs in the air. At one point, both sides of the bar broke out into spontaneous caroling as a DJ blared T-Pain’s 2007 hit “Buy U a Drank.”

Bragging rights, cash prizes and bottles of Venus’ tequila-like agave spirit were on the line, but the competition’s main purpose was to give key players in the hospitality industry a chance to show off their skills and celebrate cocktail culture in Santa Cruz County. 

Before the pandemic, competitions like this were common, often sponsored by liquor companies with the goal of getting bartenders to experiment with their products. In the post-COVID era, the industry events have been slow to return. This yearly gathering, held at Venus Spirits in the final quarter of the year for the past three years, is one of the only ones in the area. 

It’s a lot of work to create the competition, but it’s worth it, said Sean Venus, the owner of Venus Spirits, a 11-year-old award-winning distillery, and two local restaurants. He hosts the bar at his tasting room with help from event manager Tory Leslie. “We get people in the industry coming out to cheer on their bartender from their restaurant,” he said. “This job isn’t easy, and it’s great to celebrate hospitality in a different way.”

Bar culture has blossomed across the county since the distillery opened in 2014 and isn’t necessarily limited to fine dining, Venus said: “When we first started our business, there were one or two nice cocktail programs in town. Now we’re fortunate to have good bartenders from all over the county, from nice restaurants to dive bars, all doing an interesting and well-thought-out job.” 

Venus judged the contest alongside head distiller Kayla McIntyre and brand ambassador Chanel Kelly from the center of the bar as representatives from the Santa Cruz Yacht Club, Makai Island Kitchen & Groggery, Café Cruz, Mane Kitchen & Cocktails, Front & Cooper and other nearby restaurants and bars crafted unique brews using homemade infusions. 

All stops were pulled. The judges sipped drinks served in highballs, teacups, onyx coup glasses, liter steins and Santa-head mugs. Drinks were set before them garnished with gingerbread cookies, spruce tips, whipped cream and imitation cigarettes. 

This was the second year that Ryan Roseman, currently a bartender at Vim Dining & Desserts in Santa Cruz, has competed. His creation, Santa’s Last Words, was equal parts spruce tip-infused Venus Gin 01, yellow Chartreuse, blanc vermouth, fresh lemon juice and cranberry bitters. He believes that the event is an important opportunity for the restaurant industry to get together. “Santa Cruz has a huge hospitality scene, and we don’t get to connect like this very often,” said Roseman. 

Fat-washing – a technique that imbues liquor with flavor and a luscious mouthfeel – was used in several cocktails. Drew Shilling, a bartender at Jack O’Neill Lounge at the Dream Inn in Santa Cruz, infused rye whiskey with fatty pork belly before stirring it with yellow Chartreuse, rosemary simple syrup and pressed apple juice to create the Toymaker’s Nightcap, which she garnished with a piece of candied pork belly and hard cider candy. 

Ultimately, Georgette Flores, a bartender at Front & Cooper and Jack O’Neill Lounge in Santa Cruz and Alter Ego in San Jose, won the $200 grand prize in the creative round for a rum cocktail with miso and other Asian flavors, served in a flute shaped like a woman’s torso. One sip was all it took for Venus to know she was the winner. “We see new bartenders come into the mix every year, and it’s really fun to see some of those we know grow and come up with some new stuff,” he said. 

Don’t expect to see these wild creations on local lists anytime soon. Most of these cocktails will never make it to a menu because they’re typically too labor-intensive or expensive to make, said Front & Cooper bar manager Patrick Ferraro. “You’re basically making something as delicious as you possibly can,” he said, “without the considerations of profit margins, speed of service, ease of prep and volume.” 

The creativity might stay within the walls of the competition, but the camaraderie the event helps build in the industry has lasting impact. “The cool thing about Santa Cruz is that you know everybody,” said Ferraro. “It’s a close community, so it doesn’t really feel like a competition. We’re all just getting together, but within the framework of making something special.” 

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