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EAT THIS: PACIFIC BLUEFIN TUNA SASHIMI PLATTER AT H&H FRESH FISH CO.
For 30 years, bluefin tuna were the poster child for overfishing. But due to successful international conservation efforts, Pacific bluefin tuna are bouncing back, and the effects are being seen locally. Once rarely seen outside of Southern California, the fish are migrating annually off the Central Coast in the Monterey Bay area.
Santa Cruz County fish markets including H&H Fresh Fish Co. and Ocean2Table are beginning to offer this treasured fish, with the blessing – and under the watchful eye – of environmental groups and government agencies, such as the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and, as of Monday, Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program. Read my story on the recovery of this amazing fish and its surprising local appearance here.
Over the past three years, Hans Haveman, co-owner of H&H in the Santa Cruz Harbor, taught himself how to properly butcher these enormous fish, which typically weigh 200 to 300 pounds and take two people to lift onto the table. With a fish this large, the cuts are more technical and varied than the simple filet. “It’s like butchering a pig,” Haveman told me.
There’s the lean, ruby-colored loin, or akimi ($30 per pound); fatty chutoro ($35 per pound), with marbling reminiscent of Kobe beef; and the otoro tuna belly ($44 per pound), covered in a milky fat cap. Each part can be prepared differently, said Haveman. The silky akimi and buttery chutoro make incredible sashimi and sushi, while he prefers to sear the otoro, which renders and caramelizes the belly fat. “It’s just like pork belly,” said Haveman.
If you’re unfamiliar with this fish and want to get acquainted, I recommend H&H’s bluefin sashimi platter ($25). It includes a half pound of akimi, chutoro and otoro, so you can experience the profound flavor and texture differences.
493 Lake Ave., Suite A, Santa Cruz; 831-462-3474; hhfreshfish.com.
BEST OF THE WEEK AHEAD
Below, find a curated list of the best food and drink events in Santa Cruz County for the coming week. At the top, I share my picks of unmissable local happenings.
NEWS OF THE WEEK
ICYMI – here are the food news stories from Lookout that you might have missed.
- Laurie Love on Wine: High on the ‘24 harvest, Equinox update, Rosscienda grand opening (Lookout)
- Seaside’s Other Brother Beer plans new satellite taproom in Aptos (Lookout)
- 11th Hour Coffee reopens downtown Santa Cruz hub after three-month remodel (Lookout)
- High temps drove strong summer Santa Cruz tourism season (Lookout)
