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EAT THIS: PASTA & CLAMS AT PETE’S FISH HOUSE

From the restaurant’s second-story vantage point at the end of the Esplanade in Capitola Village, Pete’s Fish House, which opened in August, offers unobstructed views of Soquel Creek as it enters Capitola Beach, the candy-colored historic beach bungalows, the (newly reopened) Capitola Wharf and Monterey Bay.

Pete’s is the newest project from restaurateur Sarah Orr, who worked with chefs Anthony Kresge and Desmond Schneider, both of whom are known for their commitment to sourcing ingredients seasonally from nearby farms, and for elevating beloved comfort foods – such as sandwiches and pizza – with high-quality ingredients and craftsmanship. The result of this partnership is a tight but impactful seafood-focused menu, which manages to be both approachable and surprisingly elegant. 

The pasta with clams is finished with sabayon sauce at Pete's Fish House.
The pasta with clams is finished with smokey sabayon at Pete’s Fish House. Credit: Kevin Painchaud / Lookout Santa Cruz

For example, Pete’s approach to the classic pasta and clams ($36) was unlike any version of the dish I’ve had. A creamy, smoky sabayon sauce melted into thick, bouncy, almost udon-like noodles, mingling with clams that had already been lifted from their shells – saving the diner the work. It’s fun and memorable, kind of like a cross between pasta Alfredo and vongole that passed through Japan on the way to the table. No, I didn’t share. 

Read the full review here.

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Lily Belli is the food and drink correspondent at Lookout Santa Cruz. Over the past 15 years since she made Santa Cruz her home, Lily has fallen deeply in love with its rich food culture, vibrant agriculture...