Welcome to Lily Belli on Food, a weekly food-focused newsletter from Lookout’s food and drink correspondent, Lily Belli. Keep reading for the latest local food news for Santa Cruz County – plus a few fun odds and ends from my own life and around the web.
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… When Santa Cruz chef David Kinch closed his celebrated Los Gatos restaurant Manresa at the end of December 2022, it sent shockwaves through the Bay Area and beyond. At the time, Manresa held three Michelin stars – the highest accolade a restaurant can achieve – and was considered one of the best restaurants in the world. But Kinch said he was burned out from the substantial rigors of running Manresa and wanted to focus on his other restaurants, including Mentone in Aptos. He also hinted at pursuing new projects.
Now, Manresa is opening its doors again for a series of luxe pop-ups. Kinch isn’t in the kitchen this time – instead, he’s hosting some of the best chefs in the world for monthlong residencies, starting in January. The new concept is called Ritual at Manresa, and is in partnership with entrepreneurial brothers Luis and Juan Caviglia. Read more here.
… The downtown Santa Cruz farmers market has adopted a smaller footprint for the winter. The same vendors are there, but they might be in different booth locations, Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets assured its patrons in an email. And, while the Live Oak market is closed on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve, the markets in Aptos, Corralitos, Watsonville, the Santa Cruz Westside and downtown Santa Cruz remain open through the holiday season – barring any dramatic weather conditions.
I’ll add that while summer gets all the fanfare, winter is one of my favorite times to shop at the market. Don’t miss out on bitter chicories, lush winter greens, plump avocados and fresh herbs. Carrots and beets are at their absolute sweetest right now, and an abundance of citrus glow like gems in their crates. I’ve been indulging in persimmons, pears and kiwis – which my little 9-month-old daughter absolutely loves. When the weather is dark and dreary, nothing brings sunshine into my life faster than a basket of fruits and vegetables from the market. Check out Lookout’s farmers market guide to find a market near you.
… Here’s a holiday tip: For last-minute gifts, don’t overlook your local grocery store. Some of my favorite gifts to give (and get!) are top-shelf bottles of olive oil and vinegar; nice chocolates and candy; your loved one’s favorite snacks; cans of fancy tinned fish, especially if it has neat packaging; yummy jams, jellies and honey; cool mustard, chili crisp and hot sauce; and boxes of Maldon flaky sea salt. If you have a friend or family member who is hard to buy for, or a minimalist friend who swears they don’t want any more “stuff,” go this route, and I guarantee they’ll be thrilled.
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IN CASE YOU MISSED IT
My ideal bagel has specific characteristics – crunchy and well-browned on the outside, chewy and flavorful on the inside, and completely coated in toppings. So I was thrilled to discover that, in addition to sourdough Detroit-style pizza, Jayne Droese offers exceptional sourdough bagels at her new Capitola café, La Marea. Find them with fresh, colorful toppings – I loved “The Scandi” with cream cheese and cold-smoked salmon – along with robust Syllable Coffee. Read more in Friday’s Eaters Digest.
EVENT SPOTLIGHT
Chef Jessica Yarr is collaborating with chef Emily Beggs of catering company Kin & Kitchen on a feast to celebrate the winter solstice. The Solstice Supper takes place at The Grove Café & Bakery, Yarr’s Felton restaurant, on Thursday at 6 p.m. The four-course tasting menu starts with sourdough infused with redwood and juniper and fresh cultured butter, features chanterelle mushroom and ricotta ravioli with winter squash as the main, and finishes with bûche Noelle with candy cap mushroom meringue. Reservations are $130 per person, plus $30 for wine pairings.
LIFE WITH THE BELLIS
My family celebrates Christmas, and now that my son, Marco, is more aware of the holiday, we are incorporating a few holiday traditions – like the gingerbread house I shared last week. He’s also been doing a chocolate Advent calendar, and it’s been so fun. My little brother and I always did an Advent calendar in December, and I remember being so excited to open that little cardboard flap every evening, eat the tiny chocolate inside and count how many days we had left until Christmas. Now, every evening, Marco and I sit under the Christmas tree and open his. He’s been learning numbers in preschool, and I was shocked to learn that he could find every number up to 9! Starting on the 10th of December, he needed a little help. The whole process – sitting under the lighted tree, watching his look of glee when the foil-wrapped chocolate is revealed and his satisfied little face when he pops it into his mouth – has become one of the best parts of my evening.
FOOD NEWS WORTH READING
➤ Morel mushrooms at a sushi restaurant in Montana have killed two people and sickened 51. The wild mushrooms are a boutique culinary item, and while there have been several incidents where morels have caused toxic reactions, they’re thought to be safe. The incident has left mushroom experts scratching their heads, and some are calling for stricter regulations and safety guidelines on wild mushrooms. (KFF Health News)
➤ A new fish market has opened in Moss Landing in Monterey County. Sea Harvest, a family-owned and -operated fishing business, debuted a market on Sandholdt Road with uber-fresh seafood from its own boats and on-site live tanks. The market is zero-waste, with scraps and carcasses becoming bait, fertilizer and dog treats. (Edible Monterey Bay)
Happy holidays – Lily