The martini is having a moment. Here’s where to drink one in Santa Cruz County

I had my first martini at 22. A recent college grad, I ordered it at a bar while trying to feel like a grown-up. What could be more chic, I thought, than a martini? 

I bluffed my way through the bartender’s pop quiz — shaken or stirred? Dry or dirty? Olive or lemon peel? I had no idea. The first sip made my eyes pop. I choked down half, and didn’t order another one for almost 15 years. 

My second martini was a revelation. A friend handed one to me on vacation, and I was instantly hooked. Crisp, savory, botanical and icy cold, the martini had it all. It was suddenly all I wanted to drink, and it sent me on a mission to find the best and most interesting versions at bars throughout Santa Cruz County. 

The martini, a drink so recognizable that its signature glass is a symbol for all cocktails, is having a moment in the spotlight. It never went far — it’s the second-most-popular drink in America, after the margarita — but there is a surge of interest nationally for the nearly 150-year-old drink, perhaps spurred by the espresso martini craze in the early 2020s, followed by a pendulum shift to more health-conscious drinking.  

Santa Cruz County bartenders are responding with their own spins on the basic recipe — gin or vodka, vermouth, and a garnish — with olive oil-washed spirits and custom brines made from bonito flakes or fresh tomatoes.

What makes a great martini? That depends on who’s ordering, said Patrick Ferraro, the bar manager at Front & Cooper in downtown Santa Cruz. 

“A good martini has to be a conversation between the bartender and the customer,” he said. The questions I stumbled over during my first introduction are critical to nailing down a personal formula. 

Ferraro created martinis at several establishments on this list, including the oceanic Filthy Martini at Hook & Line restaurant, and the Vesper Legato, modeled after fictional spy James Bond’s infamous drink order (only this version is stirred, not shaken). He views the martini as a formula, rather than a static recipe. 

“It’s simple, but also has endless potential for alteration. People are drinking riffs on the martini ad nauseum,” said Ferraro. “But the more you add to it, you’ll realize that it’s not better than the sum of its parts. It’s harder to make a simple cocktail than one with nine ingredients.”

Understanding the gin is critical, said Sean Venus, founder of Santa Cruz’s Venus Spirits, a distillery that produces several different varieties, along with whiskey, vodka and other spirits. Guests at its tasting room and two area restaurants are often tempted to order Venus Spirits’ flagship Gin 01 as a dirty martini, but in reality, the ethereal, floral aromas clash with salty brine. The mismatch inspired Venus to put the Venus Martini on the menu with a preparation that emphasizes Gin 01’s best qualities: a classic martini, garnished with a lemon twist — no olive. 

But Venus’ barrel-aged Gin 02, distilled with fennel, cinnamon and bay leaves, offers an earthy spin on a dirty martini. Bronze from barrel aging, an orange peel brightens the savory herbs and oaky character. 

Vodka, which Venus Spirits also makes, is popular, but gin is on the rise. “The gin martini is a classic, and more people are exploring gin and all of its possibilities,” said Venus. 

At Mentone in Aptos, bar manager Matthew Barron channeled the restaurant’s Italian and French Riviera cuisine into a riff on a dirty gin martini using Italian gin, taggiasca olive oil from the Santa Cruz Mountains and two French vermouths, garnished with both an anchovy and olive. The result is sensual and robust, with a salinity that pairs well with the restaurant’s pizzas and regional appetizers — or a spoonful of caviar. 

Part of the appeal of the martini is its customization, and learning the terminology and their own palate will help customers receive their perfect martini every time, said Barron. 

“The more that people know the terminology of how to order a martini, the more people will like a martini anywhere versus just one spot,” he said. “It’s so important to me for you to have what you want, because, as a bartender, I’m taking care of you.”

The martinis on this list are exceptional permutations of an enduring form, and each is paired with a dish at the restaurant or bar. But there are surely more out there. Let this be a starting point to exploring one of the most beloved American cocktails, as seen through the lens of some of the county’s best bartenders. 

If you’ve never had a martini before, I would recommend the Venus Martini ($14) as a first stop. It’s an uncluttered, beautifully crafted presentation of the marriage of gin and vermouth, and offers a clarity to a cocktail style whose many variations can feel overwhelming to the uninitiated. 

This is modern martini ground zero, starring Venus Spirits’ exceptional flagship gin, Gin 01, distilled with fresh citrus, lavender,and juniper. Swing the door to martini land open further with an icy tray of fresh oysters (market price). 

On your second visit, ask for a dirty martini with Gin 02. The earthy flavors of this barrel-aged gin, brewed with bay leaf, cinnamon and fennel, stand up to salty additions, while an orange peel garnish keeps things fresh and unexpected. Venus Spirits’ Brussels sprouts with cashew cream ($17.95) match the bittersweet umami flavor profile.  

James Bond’s Vesper martini in Ian Fleming’s 1953 novel “Casino Royale” is arguably the most famous cocktail order ever. Named after Bond girl Vesper Lynd, the original drink is made with both gin and vodka, and now discontinued Kina Lillet, with a lemon peel -– shaken, not stirred. 

At downtown Santa Cruz speakeasy Alley Oop, they have their own version of this classic, but it takes a keen eye to recognize it on the menu. The Vesper Legato ($18) uses eau de vie instead of vodka and dashes of subtly sweet pear brandy and rich floc de Gascogne. Notably, this version is stirred, not shaken, which every bartender I spoke to insisted was the best way to prepare martinis, and other all-spirit cocktails, without aerating or “bruising” the liquor. 

Garnished with an olive sunk to the bottom of a Nick & Nora glass, this elegant cocktail is sleek and refreshing — and started a wave of orders when mine arrived at the bar. 

Pair it with another classically retro yet enduring treat: prawn remoulade ($18), aka shrimp cocktail, with five fat prawns and plenty of cocktail sauce served in a silver coupe. 

The airport martini – the one you drink at an airport bar on your way to somewhere else – could almost be its own subcategory. But if travel plans aren’t on the itinerary, Woody’s at Watsonville Airport, where guests can watch planes glide onto and off the runway from the dining room, creates a convincing simulation. 

The First Class Martini ($16) is icy, balanced, and a little retro. In a sea of coupes and Nick & Nora glassware at trendy bars, Woody’s opts for a large, traditional straight-sided v-shaped martini glass. It’s made with quality vodka, not gin, with a skewer of blue cheese olives that adds a touch of savory depth to the crystalline drink. 

It feels classic, not dated. I’d pair it with another reimagined icon, Woody’s signature wedge salad ($14), with layers of iceberg, bacon, tiny sweet tomatoes and plenty of blue cheese dressing. 

The Nightshade Martini ($16) sends the sipper into the tomato vines. For this seasonal cocktail, bartender Ryan Thompson created a brine infused with tomatoes from Groundswell Farms in Santa Cruz and champagne vinegar, and balanced it with shallot-washed Italian gin. The result is vegetal and summery, capped with a cherry tomato garnish that’s as sweet as candy. 

At Vim, chef Jesikah Stolaroff specializes in big flavors, and here she drives the tomato cocktail home with more tomatoes. Pair the Nightshade Martini with the cherry tomato fettucini ($38), a bowl of silky homemade noodles twirled with cherry tomatoes and ultra-thin zucchini and a rich basil fonduta – aka the best Alfredo sauce known to man. 

Hook & Line’s take on a dirty martini is undeniably oceany. The Filthy Martini’s ($19) backbone is Italian gin brewed with seawater. Its umami edge comes from a dashi tincture of bonito flakes and kombu seaweed. The addition of a sustainable vodka that supports oyster reef restoration helps cut the salinity of a cocktail that’s as clean as a coastal breeze. 

In addition to housemade pickles balanced on the rim of the glass, olives and a sidecar of more martini are served on ice. Add an oyster capped with a spoonful of caviar ($12) for a luxe bite. If you’re still hungry, Hook & Line’s menu offers more tastes of the sea: seasonal crudo, poke and sustainably sourced entrees. 

The ingredients of the Mentone Martini ($19) reflect the coastal roots of the Italian Riviera-inspired restaurant. Barron washed an Italian gin distilled with water from the Adriatic Sea in Santa Cruz Mountains olive oil, which smoothes its edges in silk. Stirred with a blend of dry French vermouth and a bitter Corsican aperitif, the result is briny and seductive, like slurping down a cold oyster drizzled with olive oil. The drink comes with olives, a skewered anchovy and, if desired — trust me, you do — a pearl spoonful of caviar ($10). 

This is a particularly food-friendly cocktail, and can stand up to an umami-rich dish like Mentone’s Sardenaira pizza ($27) with tomato, olive tapenade and anchovy. 

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