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EAT THIS: WHOLE ROCKFISH AT EMERALD MALLARD
I’m recommending this dish – one of the best that I’ve eaten in Santa Cruz County in recent memory – with the caveat that, by the time you get to Emerald Mallard, chef Lance Ebert’s French bistro at the former Humble Sea Tavern, it might not be there. Ebert, who over the past four years has earned a devoted fan base for cannoli, ramen and smash burgers under the name SC Bread Boy, works closely with local farms and fishers to create the menu at the Felton restaurant. Because of that, sometimes those ingredients are limited, and as a result, the menu changes often.
But if you do see it posted on the menu outside the kitchen, go for it. The local fish is butterflied and grilled yakitori-style whole over Japanese white oak, infusing the lean fish with smoke while maintaining its succulent texture. A robust and tangy tomato and caper sauce vierge is spooned over the top and served with bitter white frissée and pressed coins of summer melon. Smoky and tender, with rich, layered flavors, I’ve never seen the humble Monterey Bay-sourced fish elevated to such exciting heights. And it’s visually stunning to boot.
If it’s not there, don’t be too upset. Ebert and his team of eight are churning out an inspired menu of French dishes that are anything but stuffy. Actually, they’re kinda punk rock.
Read more about Ebert’s transition to Emerald Mallard here.
BEST OF THE WEEK AHEAD
Below, find a curated list of the best food and drink events in Santa Cruz County for the coming week. At the top, I share my picks of unmissable local happenings.
NEWS OF THE WEEK
ICYMI – here are the food news stories from Lookout that you might have missed, plus important news from beyond our borders picked by yours truly.
Post boom, Santa Cruz County craft breweries defy bust with new recipes for success (Lookout)
Into Ibiza: Santa Cruz’s Barceloneta to reopen as a Mediterranean breakfast and lunch spot (Lookout)
Saison Cellar Scotts Valley welcomes new manager (Edible Monterey Bay)
