Quick Take
Professional surfer and Santa Cruz native Shaun Burns just spent six months out of the water after a recent surfing injury. He learned something many Santa Cruz County locals forget: The ocean is a gift, not a guarantee. Here, he reminds us that Saturday is International Surfing Day and argues that surfing is about far more than catching waves — it also provides mental relief, community and a deeper connection to the coast.
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When you grow up in Santa Cruz, it can be easy to take the ocean for granted. I was fortunate to be raised by parents who introduced me to the waves early, and lucky to find a close group of friends to surf with from a young age. Having world-class surf breaks within biking distance is a rare privilege, a Disneyland for surfing groms.
As kids, we would pedal down to the coast every day and ride whatever the ocean had to offer.
At the time, I knew it was an awesome place to be, but it wasn’t until I traveled to other surfing destinations that I realized how truly unique home is. You don’t fully appreciate the environment you live in until you are forced to step away and gain a new perspective.
Six months ago, I suffered a surfing injury that put me on the sidelines, ultimately requiring surgery on my lower back. It has been the longest stretch of time I’ve spent out of the water since I first learned to stand on a board. At first, I didn’t know what to do with myself. The daily surf session was my therapy and the ocean was my reset – whether it was washing off the day or watching the sunrise from the water.
Eventually, I had to let go and accept a shift in perspective.
Even when you can’t paddle out, simply being near Monterey Bay offers a profound experience. My forced hiatus made me catalog everything I missed about the daily routine of surfing.
I missed geeking out over the surf forecast, tracking low tides and checking wind directions. I missed the anticipation of prepping my gear the night before and setting an early alarm. I missed the driving playlists, the smell of surf wax and neoprene … I missed being stoked.
Without my ocean outlet, I became less at ease and more anxious. I had a hard time turning off work mode, and my screen time spiked by 110%.
With International Surfing Day on Saturday, I look at the waves with a renewed sense of appreciation for what it takes to catch a wave – understanding how so many elements must come together and align with both the body and environment. While surfing is physically demanding, its deepest value lies in the mental relief it provides. It is the ultimate way to unplug, offering a rare chance to disconnect and leave your phone, notifications and emails behind.
Locals know almost every day is a good day to surf in Santa Cruz, but we of course have to watch for hazards and warnings about sneaker waves, including ones we have had in recent weeks. Still, International Surfing Day offers a global moment for everyone to consider jumping into the water and feel the glide of riding the ocean’s energy.
Founded over two decades ago by the Surfrider Foundation, the day has grown into a worldwide volunteer movement to channel the passionate energy of the surfing community toward ocean appreciation. It’s also a reminder to become motivated to leave the coastline better than we found it – whether that means joining an organized beach cleanup or supporting the coastal protection work of local organizations.
The truth is, all surfers respect anyone who respects the ocean.
If you surf, keep surfing. But if you live in Santa Cruz County and haven’t tried it yet, let this day be your nudge to start.
I know surfing can feel intimidating to get into. The ocean is powerful, the equipment is specific, and the water can be frigid. But the ocean is for everyone, and we’re incredibly lucky to have a thriving surf ecosystem with waves for everyone, including excellent locations to learn, like Cowell’s, Jack’s and Capitola.
If you’re ready to take that step, remember that respect for the water comes first. Learn the basics of ocean safety, like the golden rule to never turn your back on the ocean. In the water, fear is OK, but panic is what gets you into trouble. Take the time to learn the entry and exit locations and the general rules of surfing etiquette, which you can find posted on the signs at spots like Steamer Lane and Pleasure Point.
You don’t need to be a professional to feel the benefits of the ocean; you just have to be willing to get humbled and a little cold. This Saturday’s swell forecast? Looks like it’s showing a fun 4-to-5-foot south swell for Santa Cruz with a -0.2- foot low tide at 9:30 a.m. and 4.9-foot high tide at 4:30 p.m.
Shaun Burns is a father, husband and professional surfer who works with Save The Waves and O’Neill wetsuits. He has an environmental management and protection degree from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.
