Welcome to Lily Belli on Food, a weekly food-focused newsletter from Lookout’s food and drink correspondent, Lily Belli. Keep reading for the latest local food news for Santa Cruz County – plus a few fun odds and ends from my own life and around the web.
… Felton’s Emerald Mallard is one of my favorite restaurants in Santa Cruz County because of chef Lance Ebert’s maximalist, punk-rock takes on French cuisine. Over the past few months, Ebert has teamed up with chef Mikey Adams, a Santa Cruz local who has returned to his hometown after spending most of his career on the Michelin circuit, heading restaurants like Angler and Proper Hotel in San Francisco. The two have bonded over a shared passion for cooking and community, and last week launched a new pop-up, Death Box, in the former Alderwood space in downtown Santa Cruz.
The two lifelong skateboarders explained to me last week that “death box” refers to the filter box in an empty pool, because “if you skated over it, you might die,” said Ebert. Inside Death Box, he and Adams are workshopping recipes and ideas that they hope to launch at a full-service restaurant at some point in the future. Pop-ups are on Wednesday from noon to 5 p.m., Friday from 6 to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., with a menu that shifts among brunch, lunch and dinner with umami-packed dishes like avocado toast, a short rib melt, and ramen. Watch for a story this week.
… Speaking of Alderwood, Johnny’s Harborside is under new ownership. Former Alderwood head chef Jeffrey Wall has taken over the Santa Cruz Harbor mainstay of more than 20 years and updated the seafood-focused menu. At lunch there last week, a tempura-fried Dungeness crab sandwich ($29) with shoestring potatoes – like adding Ruffles to your sandwich – and a classic but perfectly executed shrimp Louie salad ($29) were standouts. I also noticed several familiar dishes from past menus at Alderwood and Alderwood Pacific, including the fan-favorite burger ($18). Story on this transition coming soon.
… Last Tuesday, after a two-year pause, Soif Wine shared news about its plans to update the former Caffe Pergolesi into a wine bar and retail shop. Owners Andrea Eckhardt and Alexis Carr took the reins from Patrice Boyle when Soif restaurant closed in 2022, and continued to operate the wine shop until 2023. Eckhardt and Carr hope to carry on the legacy at the historic Dr. Miller’s building at Cedar and Elm streets in downtown Santa Cruz. The next step: a hearing before the city’s Historic Preservation Commission on Sept. 17. Here’s the story from business correspondent Jessica M. Pasko.
… New Leaf Community Markets set a date for the opening of its new store in the Gateway Plaza on River Street in Santa Cruz. Mark your calendars for Sept. 27 for a celebration from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. that includes kids activities, samples and giveaways. This store is 29,000 square feet, compared to the former Pacific Avenue location’s 9,000 square feet, and will offer expanded departments and services comparable to the new 41st Avenue store. Here’s more from Jessica M. Pasko.
… As of a few weeks ago, Italian restaurant Cavalletta in Aptos serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., with a menu that features zeppole ($14) – little Italian donuts served with jam – crab cake Benedicts with lobster ($28), wood-fired pizzas with breakfasty toppings like lox with herbed cream cheese, and sandwiches and salads. There’s also a lengthy list of wine-based house cocktails, including an espresso martini, bloody mary and margaritas made with agave wine. More info at cavallettarestaurant.com.
IN CASE YOU MISSED IT
Betty Burgers in Seabright suffered a break-in early on Aug. 19. An intruder entered the building by breaking an upstairs window, and caused an estimated $50,000 in damages and lost income by ransacking the restaurant and discharging a fire extinguisher. The restaurant was closed temporarily and has since reopened, but the vandal remains at large. Here’s the story from last week.
EVENT SPOTLIGHT
Collective Santa Cruz’s Extra Tasty Tour keeps on rolling with Umami Mountain Medley, a mystical, mushroom-themed event at Felton Music Hall on Saturday, Aug. 30, from 7 p.m. to midnight. This is the fourth event out of five summer festivals, and this time they’re hosting it at multiple venues. At the music hall, guests can experience psychedelic live entertainment, themed cocktails, immersive art and DJ sets. Next door, chef Jessica Yarr is hosting a five-course plant-based dinner party with Far West Fungi. And across the street, it’s ramen night at Emerald Mallard, with special drinks at Humble Sea Tavern.
LIFE WITH THE BELLIS
Over the past year, as my children have gotten a little older – Marco is 4 and Cecilia is 2 – and I’ve gotten slightly better at this whole parenting-and-working-full-time thing, hobbies have begun creeping back into my life. Last week, after receiving a glut of gorgeous organic produce during a visit to Lakeside Organic Gardens in Watsonville, I decided to finally dust off my old crock and make some sauerkraut. Before kids, I was a fermentation fiend, and always had a jar of something-or-other bubbling away in the dark corners of my house. I missed making and eating fermented things (because, frankly, the prices in the grocery store for something you can make for pennies at home gives me a “cheap attack”). After a week, I’m proud to say there is a gallon of fuchsia-colored kraut made from purple cabbage, cauliflower and shredded carrots that I can’t stop snacking on. The next phase is seeing if I can get Marco and Ceci to try it …
FOOD NEWS WORTH READING
➤ The popularity of obesity treatments like Zepbound and Wegovy is reshaping certain areas of the food industry. Households with one user cut grocery spending by 5-8%, snack companies like Nestlé are launching new high-protein meals and smaller portion sizes, and fast food restaurants are reckoning with the new consumer landscape. (CNBC)
➤ Celebrity chef Michael Mina and Golden State Warrior Steph Curry are teaming up on two new projects debuting this fall at the Westin St. Francis in San Francisco. The Union Square hotel will be the 12th location of Mina’s chain of Bourbon Steak restaurants, and Curry is opening the Eighth Rule, a bourbon-focused bar. Both concepts are scheduled to open in October. (Eater SF)